Coming In and Out of BATANES - The Conclusion

DAY 5 and it was time to go back to normal life. Fortunately, the sun was shining and the aftermath left no traces of Helen's rage. Our hotel confirmed that there will be flight to Manila. Ron almost jumped for joy, and I was so amused of his childlike behavior.

As I stepped out of the hotel, I recalled every moment, faces and places I've been and I felt contented I have finally came upon and explore this divine island, though worried it would some take time before I could get back. But one thing is for sure, I WOULD DEFINITELY GO BACK TO BATANES!!!

Coming In and Out of BATANES Part 3 - Dark Nights with Ron

Never had it occured to me that I won't meet or bump into somebody in every place I visit. Like here in Batanes, I was able to meet Ron, a sales guy from Quezon City who came in the same flight as mine, checked-in the same hotel as mine, and like me, wanted to be alone and away from his girlfriend for a while (not that they are having quarrel or anything...). According to him, this is the first time he'll be taking his off on a far away land alone. At least, we both share a common denominator, though...

I would admit I felt a little worried of what's going to happen that night Helen struck the whole island. Coconut trees swung heavily in the wind's direction. Tall waves gushed violently on the shore. It was serene, except for the sound of the billowing wind and roaring splash of sea water towards the shore. But it wasn't eerie at all. It felt so blissful. Nowhere in the world you can feel this kind of strange emotion.

Day 4 was scheduled for my trip to Sabtang but the weather was not permitting. Ron and I had no choice but to sit down together in the hotel veranda and talked about our job, personal lives, and so on and so forth. That morning, though a gloomy day in Basco, we managed to keep ourselves busy by walking around the town checking out places which might contribute in make this day eventful.

A small carinderia provided us with a starter meal - lugaw with egg. Not much to offer, we left the place after eating and checked out the only Internet shop nearby which unfortunately was closed that time. Ok - so we have to move on. This time, Ron was becoming anxious that the bad weather might persist we may not be able to fly back to Manila the next morning. He was so apprehensive he was practically asking every Ivatan we met along the way about the weather conditions. But that was ok, everyone here greet everyone they meet even if they don't know ech other.

Noticeably, there are only a few original stone houses left in Basco. Most houses were altered by modern materials built other than the traditional Ivatan method. As we moved on, I felt I was in a ghost town - so peaceful and quiet only a few people were out on the streets. Here the students still go to school on storm days and farmers tend to their land to check on their crops.


Lunch at Pension Ivatan was delightful we managed to find a rare delicacy which is truly Ivatan - the coconut crab. It was my first time to see and taste it and I would truly recommend that you should try this. It would cost you but truly worth it.

Had a little siesta back at the hotel. The weather seemed to improve from last night but still we had no electricity. Again, Ron and I decided to go back to town and look for some souvenir items. There are a few stores where you can buy vakul - Ivatan's native hats, among others.


Then there is this Italian Pizza restaurant called Casa Napoli (sosyal ang Basco, ha ha!) which serves the best native Italian pizza I have tasted in a lifetime. All ingredients are fresh and delicious and native and much to my delight. The tomatoes on top tasted so good! Now that complimented the storm and the best conclusion to what seemed to be a horrible day of wind and rain and night of inevitable darkness.


After that hearty meal, we headed back to the hotel, packed our stuffs keeping our fingers crossed for the resumption of flight back to Manila the next morning. Then Ron and I slept so soundedly in our separate rooms.

Coming In and Out of BATANES Part 2 - Enduring Helen

DAY 3 - So far, I had spent such an amazing tour of nearly half of the island of Batan and I know I had so much to tell everyone already.

Electricity didn't went out last night. I later learned that electricity on the island was equally distributed among the barangays and brownout was scheduled on a regular interval because one of the three power generators was under repair (maintenance was being conducted by DPWH for over a year already, according to local Ivatans).

This morning, watching the news and the updates for typhoon Helen, it was Signal No. 2 in Basco, Cagayan and the rest of Northern Luzon. All flights to and from Basco were cancelled! I checked the weather outside from my window and, to my surprise, it was sunny! Huh! Is this what it was like in Batanes on a typhoon signal no. 2? I already loved it here!


My tour guide wasn't available to take me to the rest of southern and middle parts of Batan but he managed to get a reliever, who was there to pick me up at 9:00 am.
Our first stop, Mahatao and Diura fishing village. To get here, you must hike for about 30 minutes from the main road to get to the site. The natives in this part of Batanes have their own architectural style - different from the most popular stone houses. Here, their house were made of cogon, divided into two separate sections, the dining and living areas. Original inhabitants in this village used to have stone houses but most of them never stood that long and was destroyed by tsunami. Left along the trail were remains of the old stone houses where the original Ivatans first lived.
As we hiked further, I was able to take a dip in what they called the "Spring of Youth". According to an old folk tale, there came a man and a woman from nowhere seeking help for their very sick child. No one was able to help and cure the child until they came upon this spring, took a few sip, then miraculously their child was healed. The story was astonishing I took some water to drink and it tasted so good - well, generally the water here in Batanes is safe to drink.

We have reached the end of the trail and going back to Diura I decided to take a walk down the rocky shore where corals and other sea creatures are all visible. Quite amazing!

It was almost noon and there was a need for us to rush to the next stop - the Racuh-A-Payaman or what is famously known as Marlboro Country. It rained so hard as we neared the site but alas, it stopped as we entered the most photographed place in Batanes. Truly, I felt I was somewhere not in the Philippines. The wind felt so cool as it brushed my skin. The picturesque landscape and sea waves below - seemed like I was looking at a postcard though it was real.

I still managed to take some photos and videos of this part of Batan Island, enjoyed the fresh sight and breathe the smooth cool air. But the rain clouds were fast approaching that we needed to go back to Basco. Helen, the thyphoon, was cool enough to let me enjoy Batanes that she held her might for a while til that evening - when she landed Batanes and her rage were felt all over the island.

Coming In and Out of BATANES

As of the time of this writing, there are no available flights to take you to Basco, Batanes. Luckily, I was able to purchase a round-trip promo ticket via Asian Spirit (now ZestAir) for travel to July last year. Quite an odd season when most thypoons hit Northern Luzon - particularly Batanes. This will be just one those off-the-beaten-track journey I have to endure and enjoy.

Knowing the odds, I scheduled my arrival on a Monday and departure on Friday. Frequency of flights then was MWF. This is more than enough to visit Batan and Sabtang islands.

Prior to my departure, I arranged my accomodation and tour package online via Batanes Cultural Travel Agency. Package includes airport transfer, accomodation, tour vehicle (tricycle), boat rides to and from Sabtang, and municipal permits and fees. Total cost was P6,000 - practical enough for a budget traveller like me.





DAY 1

I arrived in Basco before noon. The weather was fine - sunny and windy. The air was cool and fresh. And the valleys are in deep greens. What a sight to behold! I had lunch in Batanes Seaside Resort where I was also booked for P400/night non-aircon (P800/night for aircon room). I started my tour of the northern part of Batan Island. Here you will see the Basco marker, Radar Tukon (Pagasa weather station), Fundacion Pacita, Idjang (stone fortress up the hill), Valugan beach, Naidi Rolling Hills with nice view of Mt. Iraya, Basco Lighthouse, Basco Cathedral and plaza. Price of the tour starts at P1,600 and can be arranged through your hotel.

My tour finished right after sundown. Back in the hotel, electricity went off and the whole place turned dark and silent except for the relaxing sound of the waves and slashing coconut leaves swaying rapidly with the wind.





DAY 2

I can see heavy rain clouds coming from the west that morning and I knew it will reach the island in a couple of hours. This time, I was scheduled on a southern tour of Batan. We started the tour by dropping by the Mahatao view deck. It rained so hard and we waited until it was done. Off on the road to Mahatao Town proper, we managed to drop by the white beach with natural stone curvings and majestic twin hills view, and the San Carlos Borromeo Church. I was so astonished by the "BLOW UR HORN" marker at the side of the road I had to take picture while sitting on top of the marker.


Next, the town of Ivana - the point nearest to Sabtang. People going to Sabtang take the boat from Ivana Port. Here is where the very famous Honesty Store is located. Also you will find the House of Dakay (now a World Heritage Site), the oldest standing Ivatan house.



Moving on to the next town, Uyugan, where hills and seascape are sights to behold. Truly a work of wonder, the Scotland of the Philippines really got what it takes to be called as such, and even more.


The last stop of our tour is the Itbud town. Here is where you will find the old dekey-a-kanayan loran station - an old weather and radar station built by the Americans during WWII. And the relaxing view of the sea and white beach in Imnajbu, the last stop for all forms of transportation here in Batanes. Beyond Imnajbu, left is a trail for farmers to walk up and down the hill to market their goods. Quiet noticieably is the serene atmosphere in this small barangay inhabited by around 300 people only. The church, schools, and even the barangay hall were open - yet no one was around!

Anyway, since my tour for this day was almost over, I decided to spend the rest of the afternoon walking along the shore and collected some shells. Then sat on a makeshift kubo made of coconut leaves for an hour before I called the day off.

That night I heard from the news that typhoon Helen, with strong winds reaching more than 100kph, was headed directly towards Basco and will reach the island the following morning. Perfect timing! Exciting, wasn't it?

BATANES - My Ultimate Destination

Winter in the Philippines? Not really. But the closest you can get is Batanes, where temperature dips to as low as 7˚C from November to January. Never mind if the province is associated with typhoons, no real nightlife, and yes - regular brownouts, you will still find a thousand and one little things to feel good and at peace in Batanes.
- People on the streets smile at each other even they do not know each other personally.
- No dust and pollution, the air you breath is fresh, really fresh.
- The valleys and seas are in their nature given color.
- You can't make a business bottling mineral water because everybody can drink directly from the faucet without fear of contracting amoebiasis or diarrhea.
- Stone houses are refreshing sight. Doors are left open while the owners are out to work.
- The airport is full of spectators during a "plane day".
- You can sleep in the park or prettily on the seashore overnight without fear that somebody may harm you.
- Coconut crabs, kuyabs and valichits (local migratory birds only found in Batanes) are abundant during certain seasons of the year.
- No traffic, no squatters, no beggars, no thieves - you feel confident that somebody who found your lost key will bring it to the local Radyo ng Bayan Station.
- The town mayor or the public school teacher also casts their fishnets and till the soil (at least, outside office hours) while the governor rides on his bike to the capitol.
- The brilliance of the moon and the stars do not compete with commercial lights.

Destination : WESTERN & CENTRAL VISAYAS

Everytime I would be given a chance to have at least 3 consecutive holidays from work, rest assured I would spend my free time "AWAY" from the crowded and polluted Metro Manila.

So be it. Planned my itenerary ahead of time - I decided to traverse Western Visayas to Central Visayas. Looking at my map, Silay City by plane would be an excellent start. It is where the new Silay-Bacolod Airport is located and would be my first time to take a look inside this airport.

DAY 1

I took the earliest flight to Silay-Bacolod via PAL. Arrived there after an hour, I was so amazed to find out I was in the middle of a vast sugar cane plantation. Yes, the airport is somewhere in the middle of 'tubohan'. But the people of Silay had everything arranged, paved the roads, and private vans are available to take you to the city proper for P50.00.



What to do in Silay City at 8:00 am? A walk along Rizal Avenue will lead you to their heritage buildings and ancestral houses, the most famous of which is the Balay Negrense. The three hour tour was a great learning experience. Silay City was the "Paris of the Philippines" before WWII. By looking at the edifices and facades of these old structures, I wondered about how this city could have looked like in those era? I believe this is where the original "Burgis" people came from.

My next stop is Bacolod City - the capital of Negros Occidental. Just a little less than an hour to reach by jeepney from Silay City. A visit to the Tourism Office helped me locate a nice hotel to stay, bathe, eat, and entertain for only ONE day and night.

Of course, my visit to Bacolod won't be complete without taking photos of the plaza and the gazebo, the City Hall, the Provincial Capitol, and other famous landmarks like SM City Bacolod(? - ha ha ha), and the Manukan Country.

DAY 2

From Bacolod was a long 8-hour trip by bus to Dumaguete City - the capital city of Negros Oriental. I missed the 8:00 am AIRCON bus but I thought I would be more comfortable to take the 9:00 am DELUXE bus instead (sounds better than AIRCON bus, isn't it?). To my surprise, DELUXE means ORDINARY - NO AIRCON! Ok, so I expect people of the ordinary kind to be seated beside me, maybe smoking along the way or sweating, or minding the rooster - yes! they bring along their pets inside the bus! Didn't wanted to miss anything, took this bus with an expectation of exhausting and strenuous 8-hour journey.

I arrived in Dumaguete City a little past five pm, drained, smelly, perspiring! Walked past Silliman University, I immediately located the nearest hotel from the Rizal Boulevard, checked-in and at last - the much needed shower! Took at least 2 hours of sleep. It was one hell of a trip!





That night in Dumaguete I was able to taste the famous 'tempura' frying along Rizal Boulevard. It was SOOO good I lost count of how much I have consumed. A piece costs P3.00. That made it even more delicious. ha ha ha. Of course my stay here won't be complete without exploring the rest of the boulevard and its nightlife activities.

DAY 3

Got up early to take the 6:00 am ferry to Siquijor - the island known for existence of withcraft technology - so to speak. Even before I went there I was able to contact and arrange a tour guide - Ceasar.

It only took me 45 minutes to reach Siquijor via fastcraft (OceanJet). Ceasar, my tour guide easily recognized me and approached me as I walk past many well-wishers in the port and immediately went with the tour riding a tricycle. That 6-hour guided tour made me realize how awesome the island of Siquijor is. Noticeably quiet and serene, there were only a few jeepneys and buses plying in the main road. The island is evidently safe with military presence in every tourist locations. The air is cool even on a bright sunny day, and the view - picturesque and spectacular. Mysterious as the island may seem, one will undoubtedly get hypnotized as its secrets unfold right before your very eyes - the white sand beaches, caves, waterfalls and virgin forests.





From the Port of Siquijor, I took the 4:00 pm ferry back to Dumaguete. Along the way I was thinking if I would go to Tagbilaran and from there take the last available flight back to Manila - quite feasible. Excitedly, I went directly to the ticketing office to buy ticket to Tagbilaran City - in Bohol. Probably everyone would think I am nuts for what I did! Who would ever think of a travel agenda like that and who else could possibly do that besides me anyway?

That night in Dumaguete, I fell asleep so soundedly!

DAY 4

I bought a 6:00 am ticket on a fastcraft to Tagbiliran - the capital city of Bohol. From Dumaguete port, I called two good Boholano friends of mine, whom I haven't seen for about a couple of years. Arriving in Tagbilaran port after an hour and a half, I saw them waiting with their habal-habal. Not wanting to waste any of our time, we immediately went to nearby coffee shop at the city central for the much awaited chat. They even took me with them around the city - which I am already familiar with. But still, Tagbiliran remains to be one of the best places to go for a vacation.


We had lunch and still managed to share some bottles of beer before my flight at 4:00 pm back to Manila. Once again, another travel accomplishment.

Why do I travel?

Everyone knows I love to travel. Almost everyone got very surprised to realize I travel alone.

I travel because I like to move from place to place, I enjoy the sense of freedom it gives me, it pleases me to be rid of ties, responsibilities and duties. I like the unknown, the odd people who amuse and inspire me. I am often tired of myself and I have a notion that by travel I can add something to my personality and so change myself a little.

BICOL (Lignon Hill, Legazpi City)

One of the best places to view Mayon Volcano and Legazpi City is the Lignon Hill (also spelled as Ligñon Hill and pronounced as /li-NYON/). This 143-meter high cinder-cone hill located 11 kilometers southeast of the volcano’s summit is the highest location in the city’s downtown area and towers over the adjacent Legazpi Airport. A long and winding road crawls up the sides of Lignon Hill where there is an observation station constructed on top. This is where the Philippine Institute of Volcanology and Seismology (Phivolcs) has a permanent station to observe Mayon.


I insisted to go up the hill with Joey to experience what they say is the most exciting place to go in Legazpi. Up the hill, the weather didn't permit me to see Mayon to her fullest. But I had a nice panoramic view of the whole Legazpi City downtown, airport, and nearby Tabaco City.

BICOL (end of tour)

It was back in Legazpi that day and I had to be at the airport by noontime for my 2:00 pm flight back to Manila via Cebu Pacific. For the past 3 days I have been able to navigate almost half of the Bicolandia. I definitely had a great time inspite of the bad weather condition during my entire stay and not seeing the full view of Mayon volcano (sigh!).
Joey drove me directly to the airport and immediately had a quick lunch plus a some photo shoot at the airport. Upon checking-in I asked the airline staff to seat me next to the window at the right side of the plane. Being such, I was able to have a full view of the peak of the Mayon. At least even for the last time I was able to fulfill my tour goal.
Next time it will be on a summer season. I would plan to visit the Caramoan Peninsula in Camarines Sur, the island of Catanduanes, the butandings of Sorsogon, and the pink sands of Masbate beaches.

BICOL (Camalig, Albay)

The following morning Joey and I had to get up early for his appointment in Camalig, Albay. That practically means I had only one day to spend in Naga City - so be it.

After paying the hotel bills, we grabbed our bags and again on the road back to Legazpi City.


It was roughly 2 hours before we reached Camalig - a quiet and simple town before Legazpi City, one of the most picturesque towns in Albay. Camalig is also one of the oldest towns and this is where the pinangat (or laing in Tagalog) originated. You will also have a great view of the Mayon from this location.
Again, my visit to Camalig will never be completed without visitng St. John the Baptist Cathedral which, just like almost all other centuries-old churches in Bicol, is made entirely from volcanic rocks.