CAPTIVATING CATANDUANES - In Pictures

Aerial view of Virac, Catanduanes

Arriving at the airport

Virac Port

A river off Virac

An old church off Virac

Luyang Cave

River near Luyang Cave

 

Twin Rock Resort

Sea Breeze Restaurant

Virac Cathedral

Bato Church

Puraran Beach Resort

Maribina Falls

CAPTIVATING CATANDUANES - The Untold Story

My visit to Virac may be one of my most unforgettable. This is why.

The Virac Agenda:

Tuesday - our first day in Virac with my friend Marie. From the airport, the hotel service was waiting and we headed straight to Catanduanes Midtown Hotel where we had prior reservations. It is a mid-range hotel with spacious rooms and friendly staff. Shortly after lunch, we arranged our tour from the hotel reception for P1,500. For the whole afternoon we were able to go around and visited Luyang Cave in San Pedro, strolled along a nice river and old small church after Virac (I was not able to get their proper names), the Virac town proper itself – cathedral, capitol, and plaza. We were able to go to Twin Rock Resort which we found the location so superb that we booked a room to stay for the next day til our flight back to Manila on Thursday. We had a little tour of the place and gone swimming before going back to Virac town proper. Along the way we stopped by an old church in a place they call Antipolo – realizing that even in the remotest town Catanduanes you will find significant pieces of history, culture and religion.

We had dinner after the tour at the Sea Breeze Resturant, one of the few good restaurants in Virac a few blocks away from Midtown Inn and located at the pier.

Wednesday – we packed out things and as planned, transferred to Twin Rocks Resort. To get to Twin Rock, we have to hire a tricycle from the town and for P100. We planned to go to Puraran Beach that day and with the help of the resort’s nice receptionist we were able to use the Governor’s car and his driver to give us the tour to the north part of the island – for P1500 – not bad for a whole day’s use.

First stop – Bato Church. This very old church with unique architecture stood fronting the ocean. Perhaps that’s why it is the most popular church in Catanduanes.

Next – Puraran Beach. It took us some two hours or more to reach the place due to rugged road with some parts still under construction. We were the only visitor at the beach that day. We spent hours swimming and enjoying the waves and the white sand.

Next stop – Maribina Falls. This is the most accessible of the falls in Catanduanes and almost all locals come here to dive and swim and enjoy the clean and cool water coming from waterfalls. We joined them and likewise had fun swimming.

Going back to Virac – we headed again to Sea Breeze to have an early dinner (we only had biscuits and water for lunch – he he he) and waited until the sun went down. Then went back to Twin rocks and enjoyed the amenities and ambience. We concluded the day with a nice whole body massage courtesy of the nice receptionist. Yes! She was also our therapist that night. Multi-tasking, huh!)

Thursday – time to go back to Manila. The hotel service took us to the airport for free. We checked-in our luggages and waited for the plane to arrive. We thought the flight was just delayed after waiting for an hour until the ground flight attendant announced that the plane cannot land because of poor weather condition (it rained the night before and today was just very cloudy and zero visibility on the runway). This is how it is in Catanduanes indeed! Be prepared!

To the passengers’ bewilderment, some got irked and most, fuming (including us) the airline gound crews were not able to provide any help but to ask us to wait until Saturday for the next flight. HA HA HA

Of course that would not be possible. We have work the following day so we needed to think of another plan – much of the Amazing Race wasn’t it? With a little presence of mind – we headed fast to the Pier and fortunate to be carried by a ferry going to Tabaco, Albay. From there we went to Legazpi City to catch the soonest next available flight to Manila.

What a Catanduanes adventure! Will I be back for more? Of course!

CAPTIVATING CATANDUANES - Intro

Located on the remote eastern part of the Bicol region is Catanduanes - an island province known for being frequented by typhoons. Afraid to get marooned? Then read forth and find out 'coz this island would definitely hit you and take the wind out of your sails.

A two-day trip to Catanduanes is enough to visit most of the island’s beautiful spots. However, since the province is one of the most frequently hit by typhoons, always prepare for the unexpected – prolonged stay due to cancellation of flights, rain even during summer, or simply be enchanted of its beauty that you would want to extend your vacation to visit more of the island’s attractions.

Airfare to Virac via Cebu Pacific is an all-time cheap (as low as P888 one way). It usually takes 45 minutes to one hour to get you from Manila to Virac. Make sure to take a window seat to get a glimpse of the island’s lush greenery from above before the plane lands.

Gettting around Virac is very convenient. Tricycles will take to and around the town proper for only P7.

Accomodation is also not a problem. Virac has quite a list of hotels and inns depending on your preferences and budget. Catanduanes Midtown Inn, located right in the town proper, costs P1,200.00 for twin sharing – WIFI available. While a twin-sharing guest room at the Twin Rock Resort costs P1,500.00, along the beach and with a serene view of the ocean.

Travel Around the Philippines on a Budget

The Philippines is a wondrous place full of vivid, diverse cultures and fascinating people. Traveling around the country doesn't need to be expensive. Here's how I enjoy a local adventure while spending a reasonable amount of money.
Airline:
Always check the local airlines’ websites for promotional airfare (I was able to buy P56.00 round-trip ticket to Cebu last December 2008). Never mind if you are booking 3 to 6 months ahead of your planned trip. Not only you saved on the airfare, it maximizes your time to spend for vacation.
Accommodation:
Book for a hotel room at least a month before your planned trip. Choose a standard or economy hotel like a pension house (P400-P600/night) because it is very affordable, convenient and a great place to meet other travelers. However, because of its popularity among backpackers, the rooms fill up quickly.
Food and Drinks:
Bring your own food (easy-to-cook noodles, 3-in-1 coffee in sachets, crackers, etc.) or eat at food stalls, most popularly known as ihaw-ihaw or turo-turo (one complete meal costs as low as P50). They are basically everywhere and safe when you visit Bohol, Davao, Cebu or Cagayan de Oro. But be careful when choosing a place to eat -- the hygiene and the way they prepare the food is not always good for your stomach. Check the food before buying.
Local Transport:
Consider asking the hotel staff or visiting the local Tourism Office where you can find cheap transport and how much it should cost. This way you will avoid locals from tricking you. Instead of using arranged transport with taxis or private cars, I recommend that you take the local transport, like the jeepney or minicab (smaller version of the jeepney). If you plan on moving around in a city you should also consider using a habal-habal (motorbike), or a healthier alternative – walking!
Shopping:
Shopping at the local markets is often cheaper than the huge malls. Bargaining is the key to cheap shopping. But before you do that, I recommend that you stroll around to compare prices. It's sometimes hard to know what things should cost if it's your first time. You can't bargain for something when you even don't know if it's cheap/expensive.
Tours:
Visiting some attractions? If I were you, I would skip the package tours and rent a habal-habal (P300–P500) or minicab (P1,000-P1,500) for a day. It's cheaper and you get to see the things you want to see in your own pace. For free information on history and sights, ask the hotel staff, visit the local Tourism Office, or a fellow traveler. Otherwise, you can print the information, even the map, out from the internet. A couple of print-outs are cheaper and lightweight than a book. Practical when you're on-the-go!

Conquer Ilocos Region For Two Days

In only 2 nights / 2 days I have created my own version of the Amazing Race in Ilocos. Could you imagine yourself visiting (and enduring) two provinces and nine towns in 2 days? Here is what I did. Alongside with my best friend Elmer, we had what we call the test of endurance as we traverse the Ilocos Region. See map and itenerary below.

Coming In and Out of BATANES - Day 5 - Leaving For Home

DAY 5

It was time to go back to normal life, time to go home. Fortunately, the sun was shining and the aftermath left no traces of Helen's rage. Our hotel confirmed that the flight to Manila has resumed. Ron almost jumped for joy, and I was so amused of his childlike behavior.

As I stepped out of the hotel, I recalled every moment, faces and places I've been and I felt contented I have finally came upon and explore this divine island, though worried it would some take time before I could get back. But one thing is for sure, I WOULD DEFINITELY GO BACK TO BATANES!!!

Coming In and Out of BATANES - Day 4 - Dark Nights with Ron

Never had it occured to me that I won't meet or bump into somebody in every place I visit. Like here in Batanes, I was able to meet Ron, an executive from Quezon City who came in the same flight as mine, checked-in the same hotel as mine, and like me, wanted to be alone and away from Metro Manila for a while. According to him, this is the first time he'll be taking his off on a far away land alone. At least, he tried though.

I would admit I felt a little worried of what's going to happen that night Helen struck the whole island. Coconut trees swung heavily in the wind's direction. Tall waves gushed violently on the shore. It was serene, except for the sound of the billowing wind and roaring splash of sea water towards the shore. But it wasn't eerie at all. It felt so blissful. Nowhere in the world you can feel this kind of strange emotion.

Day 4

It was scheduled for my trip to Sabtang but the weather was not permitting. Ron and I had no choice but to sit down together in the hotel veranda and talked about our job, personal lives, and travel plans. That morning, though a gloomy day in Basco, we managed to keep ourselves busy by walking around the town checking out places which might contribute in make this day eventful.

A small carinderia provided us with a starter meal - lugaw with egg. Not much to offer, we left the place after eating and checked out the only Internet shop nearby which unfortunately was closed that time. Ok - so we have to move on. This time, Ron was becoming anxious that the bad weather might persist we may not be able to fly back to Manila the next morning. He was so apprehensive he was practically asking every Ivatan we met along the way about the weather conditions. But that was ok, everyone here greet everyone they meet even if they don't know ech other.

Noticeably, there are only a few original stone houses left in Basco. Most houses were altered by modern materials built other than the traditional Ivatan method. As we moved on, I felt I was in a ghost town - so peaceful and quiet only a few people were out on the streets. Here the students still go to school on storm days and farmers tend to their land to check on their crops.


Lunch at Pension Ivatan was delightful we managed to find a rare delicacy which is truly Ivatan - the coconut crab. It was my first time to see and taste it and I would truly recommend that you should try this. It would cost you but truly worth it.

Had a little siesta back at the hotel. The weather seemed to improve from last night but still we had no electricity. Again, Ron and I decided to go back to town and look for some souvenir items. There are a few stores where you can buy vakul - Ivatan's native hats, among others.


Then there is this Italian Pizza restaurant called Casa Napoli (sosyal ang Basco, ha ha!) which serves the best native Italian pizza I have tasted in a lifetime. All ingredients are fresh and delicious and native and much to my delight. The tomatoes on top tasted so good! Now that complimented the storm and the best conclusion to what seemed to be a horrible day of wind and rain and night of inevitable darkness.


After that hearty meal, we headed back to the hotel, packed our stuffs keeping our fingers crossed for the resumption of flight back to Manila the next morning. Then Ron and I slept so soundedly in our separate rooms.

Coming In and Out of BATANES - Day 3 - Enduring Helen

DAY 3

So far, I had spent such an amazing tour of nearly half of the island of Batan and I know I had so much to tell everyone already.

Electricity didn't went out last night. I later learned that electricity on the island was equally distributed among the barangays and brownout was scheduled on a regular interval because one of the three power generators was under repair (maintenance was being conducted by DPWH for over a year already, according to local Ivatans).

This morning, watching the news and the updates for typhoon Helen, it was Signal No. 2 in Basco, Cagayan and the rest of Northern Luzon. All flights to and from Basco were cancelled! I checked the weather outside from my window and, to my surprise, it was sunny! Huh! Is this what it was like in Batanes on a typhoon signal no. 2? I already loved it here!

Diura Fishing Village

My tour guide wasn't available to take me to the rest of southern and middle parts of Batan but he managed to get a reliever, who was there to pick me up at 9:00 am.
Our first stop, Mahatao and Diura fishing village. To get here, you must hike for about 30 minutes from the main road to get to the site. The natives in this part of Batanes have their own architectural style - different from the most popular stone houses. Here, their house were made of cogon, divided into two separate sections, the dining and living areas. Original inhabitants in this village used to have stone houses but most of them never stood that long and was destroyed by tsunami. Left along the trail were remains of the old stone houses where the original Ivatans first lived.

Mahatao Fountain of Youth

As we hiked further, I was able to take a dip in what they called the "Spring of Youth". According to an old folk tale, there came a man and a woman from nowhere seeking help for their very sick child. No one was able to help and cure the child until they came upon this spring, took a few sip, then miraculously their child was healed. The story was astonishing I took some water to drink and it tasted so good - well, generally the water here in Batanes is safe to drink.

Diura Fishing Village

We have reached the end of the trail and going back to Diura I decided to take a walk down the rocky shore where corals and other sea creatures are all visible. Quite amazing!

Racuh-a-Payaman

Racuh-a-Payaman

It was almost noon and there was a need for us to rush to the next stop - the Racuh-A-Payaman or what is famously known as Marlboro Country. It rained so hard as we neared the site but alas, it stopped as we entered the most photographed place in Batanes. Truly, I felt I was somewhere not in the Philippines. The wind felt so cool as it brushed my skin. The picturesque landscape and sea waves below - seemed like I was looking at a postcard though it was real.

I still managed to take some photos and videos of this part of Batan Island, enjoyed the fresh sight and breathe the smooth cool air. But the rain clouds were fast approaching that we needed to go back to Basco. Helen, the thyphoon, was cool enough to let me enjoy Batanes that she held her might for a while til that evening - when she landed Batanes and her rage were felt all over the island.